Appenzeller is one of Switzerland's most characterful cheeses, a firm cow milk cheese famous for the secret herbal brine that is brushed over it as it ages. That wash gives it a fruity, spicy, tangy flavour unlike any other Swiss cheese. This guide covers where it comes from, the secret behind its taste, how it is aged and how to enjoy it. In the shop it sits within the selection of appenzeller and other Swiss cheeses.

Where Appenzeller comes from

Appenzeller is made in the hilly Appenzell region of north east Switzerland, where it has been produced for centuries. It is a firm, raw milk cow cheese made in wheels of around six or seven kilograms, and its identity is tied to the herbal brine, or Sulz, used to wash it during ageing.

The secret brine

What sets Appenzeller apart is the recipe for the brine that is rubbed over the wheels as they mature. It is a blend of herbs, wine or cider, salt and spices, and the exact mix is a closely guarded secret said to be known to only a few people. This regular washing feeds the rind, drives the fruity, spicy aromas deep into the paste and gives the cheese its signature tang.

Taste and ageing grades

Appenzeller is sold in ageing grades, usually shown by a coloured label.

• Classic, aged around three to four months, is mild yet already fruity and tangy.
• Surchoix, around four to six months, is fuller and spicier.
• Extra, aged six months or more, is intense, powerful and deeply aromatic.

Storing it

Keep Appenzeller in the fridge wrapped in paper so the paste can breathe. Take it out around half an hour before serving so its aromas come forward. A firm piece keeps well for two to three weeks, and the more aged grades even longer.

Serving and pairing

Appenzeller is excellent sliced on bread, melted into a gratin or fondue, or served in cubes as a bold cheese on a cheese platter. Its spicy, tangy character stands up well to a full white wine, a fruity red or a glass of cider, and it makes a lively addition to a Swiss cheese selection.

Frequently asked questions